From exploring caves, to tootling around the verdant backwaters on a scooter, to enjoying fresh seafood platters – my friend and I found that Kampot and its surrounds has something for every mood and budget. And the occasional rainy season downpour only added to the sense of drama and adventure (but do watch out for those potholes!).
Where to stay in Kampot
My friend and I arrived in Kampot slap-bang in the middle of the rainy season – not something the guidebooks generally recommend. However, there were plenty of hot, sunny spells, and the evenings and nights were cool (ensuring we could get some good sleep).
A big benefit of rainy (i.e. low season) is that hotels and guest houses are more affordable.
A case in point is V-Relaxing Resort, where we booked King Rooms, with lake views, for just $67/£49 each. True to its name, this jungle-enveloped resort placed Kampot’s natural beauty on our doorsteps, while giving us comfortable – almost luxurious – rooms to retreat to.
After two nights at V-Relaxing, we moved to Eden Eco Village which was set right beside the river. The bamboo bungalow ($16/£12) had a fan and mosquito net. While the accommodation was a tad austere, the private balconies were superb – and the perfect locations to enjoy the sunset for our one night here.
For the final two nights we stayed at Sawadee Suorsdei Boutique, located in the heart of Kampot. Our comfortable double rooms ($15/£11) offered the perfect base from which to enjoy Kampot’s night life – which proved a lot more vibrant than my previous visit some years ago!
What to do in Kampot
Explore the area on bicycle
Kampot is all about chilling in the heat (and occasionally the rain). One of the best and most relaxing ways to explore the local area is on a bicycle. We rented ours from Tree Travel Tours – for just a few dollars. A bicycle trip offers the perfect pace to soak up the sights – the highlight was seeing a herd of hefty-but-graceful buffalos on a place called Fish Island (connected by bridge) to the south west of Kampot. Many of the roads are unpaved and caked in dusty red dirt – so don’t wear your finest clothes!
Visit Phnom Kampong Trach Cave
Phnom Kampong Trach Cave is about 10km to the east of Kampot. The friendly guy at Tree Travel discouraged us from attempting the trip on bicycle (poor roads, unsympathetic traffic) – so we rented 125cc scooters from him instead. I’ve been to a few limestone karst caves in Southeast Asia, and Kampong Trach gave them all a run for their money. After exploring the Hindu shrine and stunning vistas, we bumped into some locals and had a small beer – but had to depart swiftly when they urged us to buy an entire box of the stuff for them!
Eating in Kampot
Nearby Kep (15km south east) is famous for its fresh crabs. However, as a vegetarian, I wasn’t too enamoured with this dining option. My friend did the trip by himself, and assured me the seafood was excellent. Luckily there were lots of other top-notch restaurants for me to choose from – including Mexican, Indian and Italian. One of the best meals I had, however, was at the vegetarian restaurant Simple Things, where I wolfed down one of their superb veggie burgers.
NyAnn Pepper Farm
Despite several visits to Kampot, I had never been to one of its pepper farms before. However, my friend was keen to see one, so we opted for the NyAnn Pepper Farm, to the east of Kampot (again reached by scooter). Like so many experiences around Kampot, it was the countryside that was the highlight. Relaxing in the large veranda-cafe, located at the top of the farm’s main, and very modern, building, we enjoyed excellent coffee as we gazed out over the rows of pepper bushes and verdant landscape beyond. The open-sided cafe gave us respite from the heat, although clouds formed before we left – resulting in a rather wet return journey!
Splurging on adrenaline sports
Our Kampot adventures were fairly low-budget, relaxing affairs. But we spotted a few other adrenaline pumping pastimes. For example, you can rent a jet-ski and zoom under Kampot’s bridges, for a cool $120-160 per hour (Cam Sea Jet Ski Rental Tel: 011 38 7777 (Telegram) or 097 822 0577), or rent a quad or buggy and enjoy an offroad tour Kampot Quad Bike Veal Pouch – for $20 an hour. But do watch out for those rainy season potholes!
What I loved (and didn’t love) about Kampot
Kampot looks like a fairly small countryside town on the face of it, but there are many activities and special restaurants to enjoy along the river, or hidden in the jungle. And it remains a place where you can spend as much or as little as you want – with high-end villas complete with pools, to quirky budget hostels where you can meet like-minded travellers. The locals are incredibly friendly, and don’t seem as jaded as some over-touristed parts of Thailand, for example.
One downside to note is the roads – or rather the people who use them! If you’re using a smaller vehicle (e.g. a scooter) then you will get muscled over by larger vehicles. Additionally, driving skills are poor by European or US standards, so you need to check your mirror constantly, while also watching out for vehicles entering the main roads at speed, not to mention dogs, chickens, and pedestrians! Keep your speed down, but be ready to accelere if the need arises.
Would I visit Kampot again?
I certainly would. It’s arguably the most laid-back town in Cambodia, yet it has everything you need to have a great time: fun things to do, amazing food, and hospitable locals.
I’ll be back for sure!
Writer Bio: Craig Hindmarsh
Craig enjoys exploring exotic places globally, but has a particular affection for Southeast Asia. He regularly strikes out in search of adventure, wisdom – and excellent coffee.
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