My Secret Snowy Escape To Finnish Lapland

With just a week to go before Christmas I headed to the arctic circle for an adventure of a lifetime complete with a total wellness re-balance. Cue serious sub-zero temps, steamy saunas in the arctic tundra, snow sports, spectacular northern lights, and some much needed stretching with a world-class yoga instructor! 

Where to stay in Finnish Lapland

This secret escape was in the Yllas region of Finland, almost as far north as you can get. The experience was curated by acclaimed UK wellness retreat provider Reclaim Yourself. So why the secrecy? Well, owner  Jools has managed to secure some of the most exclusive accommodations and experiences in incredible destinations around the world – and we wouldn’t want to ruin the surprise for future guests now would we!

Home was a luxury lodge with 10 bedrooms, cosy lounge areas, log burners and of course a dedicated sauna space – luxuriously large and very very hot! The retreat chef, Lucy Charlesworth, was on hand to whip up hearty and wholesome food four times a day and Faye Shekhar delivered a spectacular yoga, breathwork and meditation programme themed around the Pancha Vayus, the five currents of lifeforce in yoga philosophy.

How to get to Yllas, Finland

It is possible to get a direct flight from the UK to Kittilä, but to save a few pennies we split our journey, flying from London Heathrow to Frankfurt, then on to Kittilä on the way there and on the way back our stopover was Munich. All flights were with Lufthansa and overall travel time was 6h, not including the 1h transfer from the airport to our secret escape destination!

What is the weather like in Finnish Lapland?

Cold. Very very cold! The lowest it got during our stay was -29°C. At this temperature nose hairs and eyelashes freeze, and you really do need those thermals! 

So… what do you pack to stay warm in Lapland?

• You need layers. Thermal base layers, comfy clothes to go on top, then out gear on top of that. 
• Snow boots are a must for adequate insulation – my moon boots were perfect, but someone else had Sorrel Glacier winter boots which feature a reflective lining to retain body temperature. Trust me, you’ll need it – especially if heading out on winter sport adventures.
• Thermal socks, or heavy wool socks, because seriously, it is COLD! 
• Hot hands air activated hand warmers and foot warmers – you’ll need these even with ski gloves, glove liners and glacier-ready boots.
• Swim suit – this should probably come top, but every house, lodge, space and place in Finland has a sauna, which is where you’ll really get warm!

Top tip: Also pack t-shirts and light trousers, because it may be cold outside but it’ll be super toasty in your accommodation, log burners blazing and underfloor heat pumping!

What to do in Yllas

Jools has created a retreat that delivers beyond all expectations. Each day, as well as yoga, there was a different arctic adventure to choose from. Here’s what the itinerary looked like.. Even if you aren’t on this retreat, this is a solid itinerary for a week-long stay in Yllas.

Snow shoe adventure

Local guides take you on a three hour journey through the Finnish forest, sharing their deep knowledge of Lapland’s landscape, flora, and fauna, and giving you a chance to spot native wildlife such as white reindeer. On the journey time and space is given to be still in the silence of this arctic wonderland while savouring a traditional warm berry juice. 

Skiing & Snowboarding

Ylläsjärvi ski resort offers some of the longest slopes in Finland, which attracts advanced snow-seekers from all over the world. If you are new to the sport, don’t fear, there is an extensive network of slopes and lifts that offers something for everyone. The views from the peak on a clear day are simply sublime, with the polar light bathing the slope in pastel hues, and once the sun dips there’s plenty of lighting to guide you down to enjoy some apres action after a long day.

Traditional arctic sauna and ice hole dip

On the shore of a Finnish lake, surrounded by panoramic views you’ll find a spacious sauna just waiting to warm you up after a snowy adventure. And in true Finnish style, you’ll be expected to take an icy plunge to cool down before going back in for more. This custom is embedded in Finnish culture; it’s invigorating, boosts circulation, and may well contribute to Finland being top of the happiness index!

Husky sledding

This is the number one activity for anyone on this particular Reclaim Yourself adventure! With being a B-Corp, and having ethical adventure at the heart of every retreat it is super important that guests get to enjoy a husky experience that is as kind to the dogs as it is to the environment. This family-run ranch has a spirited pack of affectionate Alaskan Huskies who live for the thrill of the trail through the taiga forest. The trail winds through untouched forest and Europe’s largest wetland, offering spectacular Arctic scenery along the way.

Snow mobiling & arctic wilderness adventures

Choose between an easy track through sublime scenery to hone your snowmobile skills, or a full-day adventure way into the arctic circle where you can stretch those skills to the max! 

The full day tour takes you well into the arctic circle, culminating at a frozen lake where a spot of ice fishing is on the agenda before hitting the wood-fired sauna hut. Just like any traditional sauna experience here, there is a hole in the ice so you can take a dip in the lake before heading into the heat again. The day is rounded off with a bowl of  Finnish lohikeitto (salmon soup) in a secluded hut before making the 1.5h journey back to base on your snowmobile.

What to eat and drink in Finland

• Finnish lohikeitto (salmon soup) – simple, delicious and hearty
• Reindeer and fries – trust me, it works! 
• Traditional Finnish Karelian pasties – savoury pastry filled with rice or porridge
• Karelian hotpot – hearty slow-cooked stew made with chunks of pork, beef or lamb
• Pickled herring – tastes better than it sounds and will put hairs on your chest
• Finnish cinnamon buns – the Fins are fabulous when it comes to a pastry!
• Mintu hot chocolate – Finland’s famed peppermint liqueur in a hot choc
• Hot cloudberry juice (shot of vodka optional!) – hot berry juice is served everywhere, try and find the fresh cloudberry juice though, enjoy it warm, and it’s the norm for it to be served with a shot of vodka to, well, keep you extra warm I suppose!

 

What I loved and didn’t love about Finland

Finnish Lapland is truly magical, the moment I arrived it felt like I was travelling through some sort of fairytale. The polar light makes it look like the sky has been smudged with pink and blue pastel chalks, the deep snow creates a silence that I thought was impossible out in nature, and the vastness of the wilderness is almost unfathomable. The forests are spectacular, the Finnish people are incredibly friendly and an air of laid-back adventure is embedded in the culture.

While I expected the sub-zero temps and the many hours of darkness to be difficult to deal with, they were actually part of the spectacular novelty and adventure of it all. It most definitely is a totally different way of life experiencing such extremes!

If I had to pick anything that I was less enamoured by, it’d be the price of food and drink once you are there. Not an issue when you are on a retreat that caters for your every need – FYI, these ones run twice a year – the next one starts 28th Feb 2026 and there is another in December –  but definitely something to consider if you were planning to go and self-cater.

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Travel Writer Bio

Kerry McCarthy is a Writer and Artist who loves to travel. You can find out more about her adventures over on instagram at @kerrymccarthystars

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