An enigmatic cocktail of ancient Buddhism and Bladerunner-esque modernity, the intriguing Thai capital and its people will never quite be understood by the Western mind – but that, perhaps, is why we love it so much.
Where to stay in Bangkok
For some time before my plane touched down in Suvarnabhumi Airport, I regretted booking a hostel bed: grappling with jetlag is much easier when you have your own room. However, the somewhat inaccurately-named H-District Boutique Poshotel (its a hostel, not a hotel) near bustling Sukhumvit Road, actually offered comfortable, air-conditioned dormitory ‘pods’ which could be shuttered with a kind of concertina door – providing some privacy. And at 500 baht (£12) it was an affordable option.
Aside from price, I chose this establishment for its proximity to two major Bangkok parks: Benchakitti, and Lumphini – both of which afforded pleasant morning walks among wonderfully manicured gardens.
After two days exploring the bright lights of the Sukhumvit area, I moved west and checked into Mitr Inn Mrt Samyot Station – The Grand Palace (850 baht/£20). This hotel was more accurately named, since it was indeed a short stroll from the vast Grand Palace. This area is less touristy than Sukhumvit, and felt more like an authentically Bangkok neighbourhood.
A couple of days later I relocated to the famous Khao San Road area, long a mecca for backpackers. Here I treated myself to a room at the Tara Place Hotel (1,000 baht/£24), a rather more palatial establishment compared to my previous abodes. Aside from the extra comfort, I chose this hotel because some old friends also were staying there. Tara Place is around 10 minutes from Khao San Road and vibrant Rambuttri, so both areas could be enjoyed at a safe distance (the nightlife can get rambunctious, and moreover, loud).
What to do in Bangkok
The Floating Market
I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Bangkok, but in all those visits I’ve never been to the famous Floating Market. That all changed when I started chatting to a wizened Parisian policeman on sabbatical, who was sitting in the garden outside the H-District Boutique Poshotel (see above) one evening. The policeman, after surreptitiously passing me a pre-prepared bottle of gin-and orange (no outside drinks allowed at H-District), explained he had booked a taxi to the Floating Market early the next day, and that I could join him (and split the fare).
Next morning, I found the Frenchman outside the lobby waiting for his taxi: he seemed to have no recollection of the previous evening’s arrangement. Nonetheless, neither he nor his taxi driver had any issue with my joining the excursion. Indeed, the taxi driver seemed very happy – and I soon got the impression that he had arranged not only the transport, but the boat ride itself. My blood pressure started to rise as I realised the taxi driver would be working largely on a commission basis.
An hour and a half later we arrived at the embarkation point, where much haggling took place. I managed to knock 1,000 baht off our tickets (we paid 2,000/£47 each), and the Frenchman and I boarded a long tail boat.
The old wooden vessel, ably manoeuvred by a man who would be considered long past his retirement date in the West, then took us along a series of canals. We stopped at numerous canalside vendors, who tried to sell us everything from paintings to ornaments to T-shirts. The entire canal network seemed to have been engineered solely to relieve tourists of their spending money – but it was pleasant enough, pootling down the waterways in the Thai sunshine (made more pleasant by occasional pit stops for ice-cold Leo beer).
Mae Klong Railway Market (Hoop Rom Market)
As part of the Floating Market excursion, we were later taken by the affable taxi driver to Mae Klong Railway Market. The main event was the arrival of the train from Bangkok, which could only take place once dozens of market stalls had been hurriedly dismantled in order to let the train pass and stop at the station. Again, this was rather touristy, but I did enjoy seeing the commotion on the tracks as the train glided into the station, enveloped as it was by foreigners taking selfies.
A note to the cost-conscious: it’s possible to see the above two attractions more affordably on a bus tour from Bangkok (but you have to share the long tail with half a dozen other visitors).
Sukhumvit Road
To my mind, Sukhumvit Road is the beating heart of Bangkok, and is worth exploring for a day or two. While the area is perhaps best known for its risqué nightlife spots, it, and the many streets (sois) that connect to it, are a dazzling labyrinth of streetside market stalls, shopping malls, and restaurants, enveloped in a metropolis of soaring skyscrapers that would give New York or Tokyo a run for their money.
What I loved (and didn’t love)
Despite the crazy traffic and constant hubbub, I find that Bangkok is actually a very relaxing city to be in. This is partly the cossetting heat, partly the genial locals (who nearly always adhere to the guiding Thai principles of politeness and non-confrontation), and partly because everything is so wallet-friendly. When one can afford to eat out three times a day, and to grab an ice latte without a second thought, one becomes rather relaxed.
I also love the geography of the city, which, at least in my head, is almost impossible to get to grips with. This fuzzy, seemingly shifting layout, lends the metropolis an ungraspable, almost magical quality. The architectural variation, too, is impressive: I recall a taxi ride across town, speeding along flyovers, passing glittering old temples and gleaming commercial towers. Here, ancient traditions and intense consumerism function side-by-side.
Bangkok is also a great place to be vegetarian. I was a big fan of the vegan Khao Soi I had in Veganerie Nana. This dish comprised crispy noodles ensconced in a delicious yellow soup, with gluten-based fake meat, raw diced onion and pickled vegetables. At 195 baht (£4.60) it was pricey by local standards, but was easily the best Khao Soi I’ve ever had.
It’s not easy to pick out a downside to the Thai capital, but if I had to, it would be the Floating Market situation, where I felt I got a little ‘rinsed’ by the taxi driver. With that in mind, if you’re travelling on a budget, be careful what you sign up for (especially after a gin-and-orange!).
Top tips for visiting Bangkok
Download the Grab app: This app works like Uber, enabling you to book affordable taxis. It’s way better than having to haggle with taxi drivers on the street – so make sure you download it before you arrive.
Use the Airport Rail Link (ARL): This connects Suvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) with downtown Bangkok (up to 60 baht/£1.40), with trains running daily from approximately 5:30 AM to midnight. Once in Phaya Thai station, you can get a taxi to your hotel. Alternatively, you can get a taxi from the airport for about 500 baht (£12).
Learn a few words in Thai: “Sawat di kapp/ka” (Hello) and “krap khun kapp/ka” (Thank you) – will help ingratiate yourself with your hosts, and might mean you get a bit of banter going in the local 7-Eleven (as it did with me on one occasion).
Don’t miss the parks: Bangkok is the dictionary definition of ‘concrete jungle’ – but there are some wonderful parks dotted around, both large and small. Consider rising early, grabbing a coffee, and taking a stroll around one of them. Benchakitti is my favourite.
Would I go to Bangkok again?
I think the sprawling Thai capital is the quintessential Southeast Asian city, encapsulating what is arguably the most unique and enigmatic country in the region. The heat, the noise, the food and the people will doubtless have me coming back for more.
Writer Bio
Craig enjoys exploring exotic places globally, but has a particular affection for Southeast Asia. From his base in the steamy backwaters of Cambodia, he strikes out in search of adventure, wisdom – and excellent coffee.
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